The mountain I almost climbed

Jebel Toubkal is the highest mountain in Morocco. On a rare smog-free day in Marrakesh, you can see it's peak, which is snow covered most of the year. And according to Lonely Planet, the mountain can be climbed without any technical climbing gear. Climbing Toubkal has been on my mind the entire trip. I had second thoughts after my nearly disastrous hiking attempt in Azrou, but after talking to some other travelers who said that Toubkal is frequently hiked, I had psyched myself back up to do it.

Lonely Planet also said that from Marrakesh, you can take a bus to Asni, and then from there a shared taxi the rest of the way to Imlil and "if you are lucky," the trip should take approximately 2.5 hours. The only trick is that the buses to Asni don't leave from the main bus station in Marrakesh, but from a "dirt patch outside the medina walls." Anticipating this particular patch of dirt might be hard to distinguish, I set off early, ingraining the route and location into my head so I wouldn't look like a fool wandering around with my head in my Lonely Planet book, just begging for harassment. I make it to the spot on the map, which also happens to be right next to a graveyard, but there are of course no buses in sight. Determined not to be discouraged, I ask a woman who seems to be waiting for a bus if this is where I get the bus to Asni. Asni? she asks. Oui, I say. "Il n'y a pas un bus à Asni. Vous devez prendre un taxi." (There is no bus to Asni, you have to take a taxi).

By taxi, she means what is called a grand taxi, which are old Mercedes Benz's. There are different fares to different locations, and they squeeze six people into these cars (not including the driver), and the fare is split six ways. There are big lots where people shout out locations and you have to scramble to get a taxi to the right location, or if you're going somewhere no one else wants to go, you have to wait until the car is full or buy the remainder of the seats. Of course, as a tourist, the drivers attempt to charge you more then the regular fare or get you to pay for the whole thing yourself.

When I hear that this is my only option for getting to the mountains, frustration begins to set in. I walk back to medina to get coffee, sit and think. I don't want to stay here, but I have also had my fill of harassment, and don't think I can take trying to get a taxi to Imlil, most likely getting squeezed in with 6 other men, and inevitably getting ripped off.

So after coffee and breakfast I walk to the main bus station and buy a ticket to Essouira, a small, laid back, hassle free town on the coast. The bus of course, is not hassle free, and my "luggage fee" has now been increased from 10 to 20 dirhams (yes, I still insist on taking the local buses). Most of the ride here I'm kicking myself for not making more of an attempt to get to the mountains, see a new place, have a new adventure (bc I've already been to Essouira once) and of taking the easy way out and coming back to a place I already know. But when I get back to The Cave (the hostel that really is cave-like), and receive a warm greeting not only from Sebastian and Kashka (two other travelers I met when I was here before) but also from the guy at the internet café next door, I am feeling worlds better about my decision. Morocco may have won this battle, but at least I will have some peace of mind my last days here.